The brake lines that connect the master cylinder to the proportioning valve must be disconnected from the master cylinder. These two fittings can be a real pain to break loose. Start by applying plenty of WD-40 (or like substance). Using a flare wrench, try to break the fittings loose. If the flare wrench starts to spread open or the fittings have been rounded in the past, use a pair of vise grips to grip the fittings. Have a small container ready to catch the brake fluid that is stored in the master cylinder.
Removing the Body from the Chassis
Before attempting to pull the body off the chassis, it helps to remove as much as possible to reduce the weight. Items like the hood, front fenders, the gas tank, the seats and the interior carpet and interior panels were removed to reduce the weight. (I did not remove the doors of the trunk lid.) The engine and transmission were removed to make life a little easier while removing the body. The speedometer cable has to be uncoupled as well as the shift linkage between the floor shifter and the transmission.The steering column must be disconnected from the steering box. This is accomplished by removing the 2 nuts at the flexible coupling near the steering box. If you choose to remove the entire steering column from the car (which I did) remove the steering wheel, the 2 bolts that hold the firewall stiffener to the fire wall and the 2 bolts that hold the inner column support to the brake pedal assembly. Carefully pull the entire steering column into the cockpit then out a door.
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Quick Links
- The 66 SS Chevelle
- Re-paint 1992
- Disassembly
- Rebuliding the Chassis #1
- Stripping the Body
- Metal Work
- Body Work
- Paint
